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TARTANS and KILTS:
The origin of the tartan kilt probably comes from the Pictish Celts who wore a garment called a "Sagum" and "lien croich" a material that was draped and wrapped around the body and a gerkin type jacket held it in place. Celts wore stripes as a sign of rank and status. The actual words have changed their meaning over time. The word tartan possibly came from the french word 'Tertaine' which was a course blend of linen wool. but some authorities claim it comes from the gaelic 'Taur' (Colour) 'tan'(district) and arguing that the colours were regional as in Ireland rather than for a clan. The word 'plaid' is sometimes synonimous for tartan but in fact is more specifically the part of the kilt that goes over the shoulder and pinned. The word 'plaide' was gaelic for blanket.The original old kilt was known as a 'feile mor' (Great Kilt) and was about 30 inches wide and 9 ells(Yards) long.
Women wore a form of long tartan shawls called an 'arisaid' it was often worn over the head and reached down to the ground or tucked under the arms but wore plain dresses. Lowland Clans did apparently wear kilts but prefered 'braccae'(breeches) and highland cavalry prefered 'tribhes' or 'truis' (trews orTartan trousers). The modern kilt was invented by an Englishman, Thomas Rawlinson of Glengarry. The miners found the great kilt was too cumbersome so they cut off the part from the waist up which meant it was only about 4 meters of cloth and became much lighter and more practicle. There is only about 4- 6 meters in a modern kilt, the pleating uses up a lot of cloth.these were known as the 'feilidh - beg ( Little kilt)
A Clan does not have just one tartan. It depended on the woollen mill in each area as to what dyes and wool were available and each branch of the family and other families in the area within the clan had their own tartan. It took approximately one year to make enough material for one kilt as they were about 9 meters in length. A 'sett' stick was used with notches showing where each colour started and finnished. The great kilt was so large it was folded in pleats on the bed and one rolled into it and belted it up at the waist and then flicked the remainder over the shoulder and pinned it at the shoulder to stop it moving. It was the standard for many years. It was more like a blanket and could be worn in all weathers as often they slept in the fields overnight.
All clans have a number of tartan patterns and variations. Usually there is an ancient, muted and modern as well as a dress and or hunting tartan. branches of the family often had similar patterns but with additional stripes or even a complete colour change. The Gordons have about 32 known tartans. Not all sept families had their own tartan but are entitled to wear a Gordon tartan.
The modern kilt came about as described earlier. One of the earliest kilts was the blackwatch tartan also known as the Government tartan. it was manufactured cheaply and in large amounts for military units who were sort of policing regiments. Possibly also for the old fencilbe units of the 1700's. The Gordon tartan appears to be the same blackwatch tartan with a yellow stripe through it.
Supposedly the 4th Duke of Gordon when setting up the Gordon Highlanders in 1793 was given a choice of three patterns all blackwatch with one, two and three yellow stripes. He chose the single stripe the Gordon-cummings branch took the double and the triple stripe was the Gordons of Esslemont. There was an older Gordon pattern which predates the blackwatch tartan and is known as the Ancient Gordon which was apparently found in some old pictures.
Many clans are not sure if the tartans they are wearing are correct as after Culloden there was a ban on wearing kilts for almost 50 years. The old sett sticks were lost and there was few weavers left who knew and they had to rely on old paintings for the answer.
Two brothers ( Sobieski Brothers) claiming to be the illegitimate sons of Prince Charles Edward Stuart claimed to have a 12th century text of the original tartans. Some Clan chiefs adopted these and they are still in use. Some are correct as old painting have been found to authenticate them which the brothers must have found but some we will never know. The brothers were found to be frauds and the old books were only seen once by Sir Walter Scott who doubted their authenticity as they appeared to have been aged by tea. They have not been found since.
On the next page you will find the Gordon tartans. The Scottish Tartan Museum, Edinburgh is a great place to search see............
scottishtartans.org/museum.html or tartanregister.gov.uk/qResults.aspx?searchString=gordon